what caught me short was the actual wildness in some of the raspy green stems,
a welcome textural shock; and the subtle, briny intensity of the dehydrated scallop chips
that rose above the greens like ragged sails. At the end, when no scrap of green or yellow remained,
I lifted the broad bowl and drank all the gentle rice-vinegared cucumber juice that
had served as the simplest of dressings. An exclamation point of tart sorrel leaf here
and...
